Electric Cooktops | One Dead Burner Is Usually the Cheap Fault | $100 Service Call, Applied to Your Repair

Cooktop Repair in Gardendale and Greater Birmingham

◉ Our LocationGardendale, AL 35071
◷ Service CallsCall or text to schedule
$100
Service Call
✆
Applied to your repair.
90-day warranty on parts and labor.
Rated on Google.
Cooktop repair
Aaron Tucker of Tucker Appliance Repair on a cooktop repair service call in Greater Birmingham Cooktop repair by Tucker Appliance Repair in Greater Birmingham
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One burner has stopped and the rest are fine, or the whole surface has gone dead, or a switch has started behaving oddly. Those are cooktop calls and they're among the more satisfying jobs Aaron takes, because the faults tend to be visible and the parts tend to be cheap.

A cooktop here means the appliance on its own, dropped into a countertop with the oven somewhere else or nowhere at all. If your burners sit on top of a range with an oven underneath, the oven page covers that machine and there's a link at the foot of this one.

✔Coil and smooth top
✔Whirlpool, GE and Frigidaire
✔$100 service call, applied to your repair
✔90-Day Warranty on Parts and Labor
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Electric Cooktops

Coil and Smooth Top

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Most Faults Are Visible Once the Top Is Off

The eye finds it first

⚠

Two-Hour Arrival Window

Call or Text When He Sets Off

$

$100 Service Call

Applied to Your Repair

⚖

90-Day Warranty

On Parts and Labor

★

Rated on Google

In their own words

What People Call About

Four complaints, and the first is by far the most common.

"One burner won't come on and the others are fine."

The good one, and the cheap one. Either the element itself or the switch that feeds it, and neither is an expensive part. The fact that the other burners work tells you the supply and the controls are basically healthy.

"A burner won't hold a temperature."

Usually the switch. Surface element switches regulate by cycling on and off, and a worn one loses the ability to hold a setting before it fails outright.

"The whole thing is dead."

Not a burner fault. That's the supply or, on a cooktop with electronic controls, the board. Worth checking the breaker before you call, because a cooktop is usually on a double breaker and only half of it can trip.

"The glass is cracked."

An honest conversation rather than a quick answer. The glass can usually be replaced. What normally happens is that people hear the part price and decide to put the money toward a new cooktop instead. You'll get both numbers.

The parts that go

What Fails on a Cooktop

Two parts account for nearly everything, and both usually show themselves without a meter.

The surface element switch: the most common failure

The switch behind the knob. When one fails, that burner stops, and the giveaway is often visible: a switch that has burnt up on the inside can be identified by eye once the top is off. This is the fault behind most single-dead-burner calls, and it's the cheap end of the page.

The surface element itself

The other half of the same symptom. A failed element usually carries a burn mark on it, so again the diagnosis is frequently visual rather than electrical. A meter confirms it rather than hunting for it.

Wiring and terminals

Heat and years do work on the connections underneath. A burner that works intermittently is sometimes a connection rather than a component.

The control board, on cooktops that have one

Smooth-top cooktops with electronic touch controls have a board, and when it goes the whole surface goes with it. That's the expensive end and it gets confirmed before anything is ordered.

Cracked glass, and the arithmetic behind it

Replaceable in most cases. The reason it often isn't replaced is cost: the glass is a large single part and its price gets close enough to a new cooktop that most people choose the new one. That's their call to make with real numbers in front of them, and you'll get them.

Scope of work

What We Fix on a Cooktop

✔One burner dead, several dead, or the whole surface dead
✔Surface element switch replacement
✔Surface element replacement
✔Burners that won't hold a temperature
✔Control board diagnosis and replacement on electronic cooktops
✔Wiring and terminal faults underneath
✔Coil-element and smooth-top electric cooktops
✔Whirlpool, GE and Frigidaire
The honest answer

Repair or Replace a Cooktop?

For a burner fault, repair, almost every time. A switch or an element on a cooktop that is otherwise sound is a modest part in an appliance with very little else in it. People replace whole cooktops over one dead burner more often than they should.

For a dead board on an older electronic cooktop, the answer usually turns, because a board is a meaningful share of what a replacement costs.

For cracked glass, it depends on the number, and that's a genuine it-depends rather than a hedge. The part can be had; whether it's worth having is a decision only you can make once you know what it costs against what a new cooktop costs.

The same question on every other appliance→
Cooktop repair by Tucker Appliance Repair

If you do end up replacing, the buying question is covered on the repair-or-replace page.

Pricing

What It Costs

$100 service call, applied to the repair if you go ahead within thirty days. After thirty days, a return visit is a further $50 to $100.

No published repair prices. What can be said honestly is that the two most common cooktop faults, a switch and an element, are among the less involved jobs Aaron does, and a cracked glass or a control board are not.

One all-in figure before any work starts, covering parts, labor, tax and the service call.

Exclusions to the 90-day warranty are listed in full on the FAQs.

$100
Service call, applied to your repair
90 days
Warranty on parts and labor
Step by step

How the Visit Goes

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1
Step 1

One burner, or all of them?

That single question sorts a cheap fault from an expensive one before anyone leaves the office.

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2
Step 2

Cooktop or range?

If there's an oven underneath, it's a range, and the diagnosis runs differently. Easy to establish on the phone and worth getting right.

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3
Step 3

Two-hour window, text when he sets off

Booked to suit you; cooktops are rarely urgent.

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4
Step 4

The top comes up

Cooktops lift out of the counter, which gives good access to the switches, the elements and the wiring underneath in one go.

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5
Step 5

Look before metering

A burnt switch and a marked element are both things the eye finds first. Where it does, the meter confirms and the job moves on.

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6
Step 6

Every burner tested before he leaves

Not just the one you called about. It takes two minutes and it catches the second fault you hadn't noticed yet.

Cooktop repair by Tucker Appliance Repair in Greater Birmingham
Counting your burners

Why One Dead Burner Is Good News

People tend to assume a dead burner is the beginning of the end for a cooktop. It's usually the opposite, and understanding why is how people stop replacing a cooktop over one part.

A cooktop is a simple appliance. Each burner is essentially an element and a switch, wired to a shared supply. There is no motor, no pump, no water, and on the older coil designs no electronics at all.

So when one burner stops and the others keep working, that pattern is telling you something specific: the supply is fine, the wiring back to the panel is fine, and any control board present is fine, because all of those are shared and the other burners prove them. The fault is confined to the two parts serving that one burner.

The reverse also holds, and it's the reason the first question on the phone is one burner or all of them. When everything is dead at once, the shared side is implicated: the supply, a breaker, or a board. That's a different conversation and a different price. The practical upshot: count your working burners before you call anybody. If three out of four are fine, you almost certainly have a cheap repair and a cooktop with years left in it, whatever a showroom would like you to think.

Glass cooktops

Why the Manufacturer's Own Troubleshooting Runs Out on a Glass Cooktop

There is a gap in what the manufacturers publish, and once you have seen it the case for calling somebody makes a lot more sense.

When replacing beats repairing

What they actually tell you

Look up a radiant glass cooktop element that will not heat on Whirlpool's, GE's or Frigidaire's own support pages and you get the same short list: check the control lock, check the breaker, try a reset, and if that does not do it, contact service. GE publishes a genuine diagnostic step for coil elements, where you can swap a burner into another receptacle and see whether it heats. For smooth-tops, there is nothing equivalent.

That is not an oversight

On a smooth-top there is nothing a homeowner can safely reach. The element, the switch that feeds it and the board behind that are all under a sealed glass surface, and the makers know that any published procedure ends with somebody lifting a live cooktop. So the documentation stops, and the honest reading of that is that this genuinely is a job for a meter.

Which is where Aaron's answer starts

Asked what he finds on a cooktop, his answer is that it is usually a bad switch or an element. On a range it is usually an igniter, an element or a control board. He can often tell a surface element switch has failed by looking at it, because the inside is visibly burnt, and the same goes for an element with a burnt spot on it. That is not a substitute for testing, but it is the sort of thing that comes from opening a lot of them.

Cracked glass is the one place everybody agrees

Whirlpool's own instructions are blunt about it: do not cook on a broken cooktop, because cleaning solutions and spillovers can penetrate the break and create a risk of electric shock, and contact a qualified technician immediately. GE's wording is the same and adds that you should not clean it either. If yours is cracked, stop using it now rather than at the weekend.

Trussville is the one town whose utility publishes descaling advice of its own

What customers say

What Customers Say

★★★★★

Broiler, seen the same day, fixed once the part landed

"We were super impressed with Aaron Tucker of Tucker Appliance Repair! Our broiler was broken and he responded very quickly, came out same day to evaluate and quickly fixed it within the week once the part arrived."

Amanda Davis, Google review, November 2024
★★★★★

Quick, and he explained it

"Very quick and knowledgeable technician. He was also very nice. We will definitely use them again and recommend them to others."

Andy Blake, Google review, July 2025

Every review Aaron has, live from Google, in the customer's own words and under their own name.

FAQ

Questions We Get Asked

One burner is dead. Do I need a new cooktop?

Very probably not. There is a section above on why one dead burner among working ones is the cheap diagnosis rather than the expensive one.

Do you work on gas cooktops?

Aaron works on electric cooktops, coil and smooth top. If yours is gas, call and describe the fault. A gas range whose oven will not heat is a job he takes, and that is on the oven page.

My cooktop glass is cracked. Can it be replaced?

Usually it can. The question is whether it's worth it once you hear the part price, and most people decide to put the money toward a new cooktop. You'll get both figures.

The whole cooktop is dead. Is that expensive?

It can be. Check the breaker first, for the reason given above.

Is my cooktop actually a range?

If there's an oven underneath it, yes, and the oven page covers that machine. A cooktop is the surface on its own, set into a counter.

Which brands do you take?

Whirlpool, GE and Frigidaire. If yours is something else, call and ask.

Can you install a new cooktop?

Installation here is limited to dishwashers and garbage disposals.

What does the warranty cover?

Ninety days on parts and labor for the repair we did. A replaced board is the exception. Full exclusions on the FAQs.

Can I use cast iron on a glass cooktop?

The manufacturers do not agree on this, which is worth knowing before somebody tells you otherwise with confidence. Frigidaire says plainly that cast iron is not recommended on ceramic or glass. Whirlpool lists cast iron in its own cookware guidance without any such warning. What they do all agree on is the mechanism behind the worry: dragging any heavy pan across the surface scratches it, and dropping one cracks it.

The brands this comes up on most

Each of these has its own page with the faults, the parts reality and the model-plate location for that badge.

Service area & contact

Where We Work, and How to Reach Us

Cooktop repair across greater Birmingham, north from Gardendale through the city and out to the Over the Mountain communities.

Call or text (205) 883-9703. Tell us how many burners are affected and whether there's an oven underneath. Those two answers do most of the work.

Tucker Appliance Repair · Gardendale, Alabama · (205) 883-9703

Calls and texts Monday to Friday, 8am to 5pm. Saturday calls are usually answered; Sunday goes to voicemail.

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